Why Budgies Make Wonderful Companions (and Why Two Is Better Than One)

Budgerigars, or budgies as they are almost universally known, are one of the most rewarding small parrots a first-time keeper can choose. They are cheerful, intelligent and remarkably hardy when given the right environment. Native to the arid interior of Australia, they have evolved to be highly social, living in flocks that can number in the thousands. That instinct does not disappear in a living room in Britain.

For this reason, the single most important piece of advice for a new keeper is to keep budgies in pairs, or in a small group. A lone budgie will often become withdrawn, prone to feather-plucking and stress behaviours, and will rely entirely on you for company. Two budgies of the same sex generally get along well, and a male-female pair will bond happily, though you must be prepared for breeding behaviour. Two males is often the easiest combination for beginners. If you do keep a single bird, you must be able to offer several hours of direct interaction every single day, without exception.

Choosing and Setting Up the Right Cage

Budgies are small, but they are built for flight. A cramped cage is one of the most common mistakes made by new keepers, and it leads to obesity, poor feather condition and boredom. As a rough guide, a pair needs a cage at least 60cm wide, 40cm deep and 50cm tall, and wider is always better than taller. Budgies fly horizontally, not vertically, so a long, low flight cage beats a tall, narrow one every time.

Bar spacing should be no more than 1.2cm to prevent escapes, and the cage should be positioned against a wall in a room used by the family, away from draughts, radiators, direct sunlight and the kitchen. Kitchens are genuinely dangerous because of fumes from non-stick cookware and aerosols, which can kill a budgie within minutes.

Inside the cage you will need:

• Natural wooden perches of varying thicknesses, to exercise the feet and prevent pressure sores. Avoid smooth plastic dowels as the only perch.
• Stainless steel or ceramic food and water bowls, cleaned daily.
• A mineral block or cuttlefish bone for calcium, especially for hens.
• A few shreddable toys — paper, soft wood, palm leaf — rotated regularly to prevent boredom.
• A shallow bath or a misting bottle, as budgies love to bathe and it keeps feathers in good condition.

Line the tray with plain paper rather than sandpaper sheets, which can irritate the soles of the feet. Avoid any cage with rust, sharp edges or lead-based paint.

Feeding Your Budgies Well

A seed-only diet is the single biggest nutritional mistake in budgie keeping. It is high in fat, low in many vitamins and minerals, and over time it leads to fatty liver disease and shortened lives. The healthiest approach is a mixed diet built around a quality small-parrot pellet, supplemented with seed, fresh greens and a little fruit.

Aim for roughly 60–70% pellets, 20–30% seed, and the remainder as fresh food. Good greens include spinach, kale, broccoli, grated carrot, pea shoots and dandelion leaves. Apple, pear and berries are fine in small amounts. Never feed avocado, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, onion, garlic or anything salty — all are toxic to budgies.

Fresh food should be removed after a few hours, especially in warm weather, and water should be changed at least twice a day. If your budgie was raised on seed alone, switch to pellets gradually over several weeks by mixing them in, rather than removing the seed overnight.

Daily Flying Time and Exercise

Budgies are active little birds and need to fly every day. A pair should have at least an hour out of the cage daily, ideally more, in a bird-proofed room. Before you open the cage door, close all windows and doors, cover mirrors, switch off ceiling fans, remove open water (toilets, pans, fish tanks) and make sure any other pets are safely out of the room.

Flight is not just exercise; it is mental stimulation and the foundation of strong muscles and healthy air sacs. A budgie that never leaves its cage will become unfit and unhappy. Provide a variety of landing spots — a play gym, a tabletop stand with perches, or a safe curtain rail — so your birds have somewhere to go. Keep sessions supervised, and never leave the room while they are out.

Keeping Budgies Healthy and Happy

Budgies are prey animals and will hide illness until they are seriously unwell, so daily observation is essential. Watch for fluffed feathers, sitting on the cage floor, tail bobbing, discharge from the nostrils, changes in droppings, or a sudden drop in chatter. Any of these warrants a prompt visit to an avian vet.

Beyond the basics, a few habits will keep your birds thriving:

• Sleep: budgies need 10–12 hours of dark, quiet sleep. Cover the cage at night if the room is not dark enough.
• Temperature: keep the room between 18°C and 24°C, and avoid sudden changes.
• Cleaning: wipe bowls daily, change cage paper every day or two, and do a full cage scrub weekly.
• Toys: rotate them every week. Budgies bore quickly, and a bored budgie can become a noisy, feather-chewing one.
• Company: talk to your birds, offer millet from your hand, and let them choose to approach you. Forcing interaction destroys trust.

Taming and Bonding with Your Budgies

Patience is everything. Give new budgies a few days to settle without handling, then begin sitting near the cage and talking softly. Offer a spray of millet through the bars, and let them come to you. Over weeks, most budgies will step onto a finger for a treat, especially if they see a bonded companion doing it first.

Never grab a budgie, and never punish a bite — a quick, quiet withdrawal is far more effective. With a good diet, a wide cage, daily flight, a companion and plenty of gentle routine, a pair of budgies will reward you with chatter, acrobatics and affection for a decade or more. Few first pets give back so much for so little space.